Valparaiso: The only thing to fear is burning calves


If Santiago is the Lygon St or St Kilda of Chile, than Valparaiso is the Brunswick or Collingwood (sorry about the Melbourne references). The dirtier, more exciting student city only an hour and a half from Santiago.

…but it’s dirty in a good way too…

But we did a free walking tour and discovered the nice corners of the seaside city built into the hills.

A Valparaiso street corner

The streets were ridiculously steep but luckily the funiculars made a comeback! (Actually called ascensors and more like diagonal elevators).

ASCENSOR! AKA the calf-saver.

So hilly you couldn’t escape the good views.



Athena with beer.
Athena with one of the localish craft beers.

The streets are so convoluted and winding the locals need a way to distinguish all the areas so that people don’t just wander around in circles. Everybody paints their houses all different and interesting colours. Local street artists also have permission to paint murals everywhere to liven up the city and they get tips from the owners of the buildings. Apparently people graffiti over them all the time with ugly tags but the artists just come back and paint something else for free.

Maybe not grammatically correct but the message is received
Another beautiful mural painted by the locals.
I think thats an ‘A’
…it was always going to happen.

We also visited Pablo Neruda’s other other home (he has at least 3). Filled with lots more interesting objects that were top secret apparently because you weren’t allowed to photograph them. He would read from his favourite leather armchair (“La Nube”) at the window overlooking the hills and write at his desk in the tiny top floor study that has views all the way down the hill and over the ocean.

Pablo Neruda’s house on the top of the hills.

The area under the hills is less colourful but is still lively and has markets on every street corner.

Christmas in February?
Well, yiiiisss. Who could have ever forseen?!
The mystery horse (el caballo sin nombre)

Not sure if this horse was a stray like all the dogs in the city, but it kept turning up at various points around the city, always tied to something but never with an owner in sight…He also snuffled at being patted on the nose.

There was also a local brewery which sadly only had 2 beers in stock. The waiter said that he has an Australian roommate that goes around saying “sup sick c**t”. Not sure if he knew what it meant. No doubt his roommate was Australian though.

The cerveseria menu


The stout at the cerveseria


We found a cafe that reminded us how much we miss you guys. Still didn’t go, no matter what Vogue said.

The best coffee in Chile

We have so many more photos of Valparaiso but we would be here all night so we will just have to show everyone when we get back. Adios!








4 Comments Add yours

  1. Kate Ervin says:

    Is that horse growing a tree? Please tell me you intentionally lined it up like that.
    Also, I love pensive-looking Sean in the panorama photo 🙂
    Miss your faces! (and the rest of you!)


  2. Kathleen says:

    The theeny and dino pic made my night. Beautiful photos, the colours are so pretty. I can’t believe there is a Melbourne café, I’m going to google it.


  3. Luke says:

    Does funiculars direct translate into crunderlers in english?


    1. Sean says:

      Can’t believe I missed this comment haha. Crunderlers: (n) Something that crundles up hills.


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